LADAKH - LAND OF HIGH PASSES
LADAKH
Because in the end you won’t remember the time
you spent working in the office or mowing the lawn. Climb that god damn
mountain
INTRODUCTION
Ladakh is a region administered by India as a union
territory, and constitutes a part of the larger Kashmir region, which has been
the subject of dispute between India, Pakistan, and China since 1947.
NAME
- The classical name Tibetan: Wylie: La dwags, THL: la dak means the "land of high passes". Ladak is its pronunciation in several Tibetan dialects.
- The English spelling Ladakh is derived from Persian: ladāx.
- The region was previously known as Maryul.
- Medieval Islamic scholars called Ladakh the Great Tibet (derived from Turko-Arabic Ti-bat, meaning "highland"); Baltistan and other trans-Himalayan states in Kashmir's vicinity were referred to as "Little Tibets".
HISTORY
The present Ladakh was divided into two provinces
while the third comprised western Tibet. The area of western Tibet slipped away
from the kingdom but was reunited in 16th Century A.D. by the famous Ladakhi
ruler Sengge Namgyal. Ladakh was an independent country since the middle of
10th century.
TEMPERATURE/CLIMATE
- Ladakh witnesses extremes of climate.
- During the months between October and March, it can get uncomforting cold, with temperatures recorded as low as minus 23 degrees centigrade!
- The summer months, on the other hand, are very pleasant but cold in night.
- Consequently, you will need to protect yourself at all times.
PLACES TO EXPLORE
1. Lamayuru – The Moonscape for Tourist
- Lamayuru is on the Leh – Srinagar Highway, and can be visited from Leh (if you fly in) or on your way from Srinagar if you drive to Leh.
- Lamayuru monastery is situated at a distance of 127 KM from Leh at a height of 3,510 meters.
- Lamayuru can easily be covered in a day return trip from Leh.
- Lamayuru is known for its monastery, and for its “lunar” landscape – quaintly promoted as a “Moonscape” for tourists.
- The landscape is certainly incredible with its spectacularly odd geological formations, though this is not unique to Lamayuru.
- Lamayuru monastery is ancient, built into the ‘moonscape’. It has some beautiful frescoes and frightening masks. Visitors can also see the glassed in meditation cave of the Lama Naropa. Lamayuru is a part of the Dri-Gungpa sector in western Ladakh.
- Lamayuru was founded in the 11th century by Mahasiddacarya Naropa. Lamayuru has the appearance of a cave monastery with moonlike landscape. Lamayuru consisting of 5 buildings, the structure is in ruins today.
- The annual festival known as Yuru Kabgyat is the major attraction of the monastery.
- Mask dance by the lamas are the highlight of the festival.
- Another important ritual followed during the festival is the burning of effigies.
- It stands for destruction of the ego in every individual. Besides its monastery, Lamayuru also attracts tourists for its landscape quite similar to the lunar terrain.
- In Ladakh, you never know what surprise nature has in store for you.
- Pangong Lake, situated at a height of almost 4,350m, is the world’s highest saltwater lake. Its water, which seems to be dyed in blue, stand in stark contrast to the arid mountains surrounding it. Extending to almost 160km, one-third of the Pangong Lake lies in India and the other two-thirds in China.
- Pangong Lake, one of the most famous lakes in Leh Ladakh, derives its name from the Tibetan word, “Pangong Tso”, which means “high grassland lake”.
- You could spend hours in contemplation here, and still not have enough of its beauty. Pangong Lake is also known to change colors, appearing blue, green and red at different times.
- If you have decided to go on a trip to Ladakh anytime soon, don’t forget to visit the Pangong Lake. The beauty which awaits you there cannot be described in words.
- It has to be seen, felt and absorbed within yourself.
- Major attraction of Nubra is the highest motorable road Khardongla pass (18,380ft.), majestic peaks and glaciers enchanting valleys and villages.
- Diskit and Samstanling Gonpa, Panamik hot spring, double humped camel safari, river rafting, trekking and Sunbathe in the sand dunes at Hunder are also a great source of attraction for the tourists.
- This valley is popularly known as Ldumra or the valley of orchard/flowers. It is situated in the North of Ladakh, between Karakoram and Ladakh ranges of Himalayas.
- Nubra lies at average altitude about 10,000 feet above sea level. The climate, of the areas being soft, soil is much fertile and the vegetation of the area is comparatively thicker than those of the other areas of Ladakh. Shrubs, bushes and trees grow in abundance wherever there is any source of water. Due to this reason Nubra has acquired its right name- Ldumra.
- Shayok and Siachan rivers forms fairly large drain in Nubra. Nubra is a broad valley with lofty mountains on its all sides. Valley assumes greater attractions at the site where both the rivers meet.
- Two small, turquoise, high altitude lakes with camping sites, and views of the surrounding permafrost mountains are the highlights of the Penzi La pass, which is 160 Km from Kargil and at an altitude of 4,401 to 4,450 meters, the highest point on the Kargil – Zanskar road. This pass is more of a table land and, unlike the Zojila, has plenty of flat spaces and things to see, the Drang-Drung, for instance. Kishtwar is behind the mountains of the right.
- Sani Gonpa:- 7kms before reaching Padum this castle like monastery which unlike other monasteries of Ladakh, is built on level ground. According to a legend its origin is associated with Kanishka ( Kushan ruler of 2nd century AD), on account of the Kanishka Stupa, which stands in the backyard of the walled complex.
- Karsha Gompa:- 9 kms from Padum this is the largest monastic establishment in Zanskar.
The complex of white washed structures are imposing and can be seen from Padum.
This complex houses 150 monks, eight temples, two assembly halls, valuable
icons, artifacts, scrolls and thankas. The monastery was founded during th 14th
century.
- Stongde Monastery:- 18 kms from Padum the monestry is perched atop a hillock overlooking the
village. This monastery is associated with the famous Tibetan Yogi Marpa who is
said to have founded it and is also known as Marpa Ling.
- Burdan Monastery:- 12kms from Padum in the Lungnak valley is an isolated monastery perched
atop a rock rising vertically from the river, The monastery holds prominent
position among the Drogpa order monasteries of Zanskar. It was founded by Deba
Gyatso during early 17th century. But it is famous as the seat of Lama Barapa.
- Phugtal Gompa:- This is one of the superb cave monastry of Zanskar and is picturesquely
situated in Lungnak valley. It was founded by Phagspa Sherab Zangpo by 2nd half
of the 11thcentury.
- Zangkul Gompa:- The meditation retreat of famous Indian yogi Naropa (10th century AD) Zankul is situated in a
side valley near Ating village and falls inroute Padum
– Kishtiwar trek.
- Sankoo:- At a distance of 40kms from Kargil town
Suru Valley is a beautiful destination with green land scape and dense
plantation and is also the base for four days trek to Shargole via Rusilla and
Sapi and three days pleasure trek to Drass via Umballa. Famous for nearby Bamiyan Type Rock statue.
- Purtikchey:- At a distance of 60kms from Kargil is an ancient village and a view
point for famous NUN peak (7135m).
- Damsna:– A beautiful picnic spot and a well established Fishery Unit is situated
at a distance of 65 kms from Kargil. It is also the take off point for river
rafting.
- Tai Suru/Panikhar:- At a distance of 70kms from Kargil on Padum Zanskar road is the base for
adventure activities like mountaineering, rock climbing, river rafting and
trekking.
- Tangole:- 77kms from the Kargil town is the base camp for Mountaineering
Expedition to Nun-Kun Massif.
- Parkachik:– Parkachik is famous for Parkachik Glacier, Picnic Spot and adventure
activities like rock climbing, Trekking and Mountaineering.
- Rangdum:– At a distance of 130kms from Kargil on Padum road is an ideal camping place in the Himalayan
wilderness and perfect isolation.The main attraction here is an imposing
18thcentury monastery perched picturesquely on a top of a hillock like an
ancient fort. Rangdum is also serves a
base for different Trekking routes.
- Drass has become an important halting place for travellers going to Leh and Kargil. There is a Tourist compex with Tourist Office and Accommodation blocks. There are a number of Hotels and tea stalls are in Drass. One can have superb views of War Time Hill features like Tiger Hill and Tololing from here.
- Goashan:- A beautiful picnic spot which is also famous for the horse polo ground.
- Drass valley posses many splendors of nature, some of its features got fame and were much focused in the Electronic Media during the Kargil Conflict of 1999.The war time topographies of Tololing, Tiger Hill and Mushko valley are places of attraction.
- RELIGIOUS SITES:
- (I) Hindu Mythological Sites:
- Drupati Kund:- Legendary “Drupati Kund” a sacred pond for Hindus (75 kms from Kargil)
on Kargil – Srinager National Highway ia a great attraction for domestic
tourists and pilgrims.
- Bhembat:– 5 kms ahead of Drass there is famous place related to Hindu mythology
where a rock sculpture is believed to be the solidified body of Bhim.
- Budhist Sites & Monuments:
- Stagsboo Drass: 2 kms before Drass proper there are images of carving on stone blocks
representing Maitreya and Avalokiteshvare prominently.
- Drinking in Ladakh is not prohibited however the legal drinking age is 21.
- Even for the adults, moderation in drinking is highly recommended.
- It has been noted that liquor can cause dehydration in Ladakh and might even result in acute nausea and headaches.
ACCOMMODATION/WHERE TO STAY
There is a range of hotels and other
forms of accommodations that you can hope to get in Ladakh. For budget
travelers, the economical options are widespread and range from hostels to
dormitories and even tents. You might even hope to stay for longer terms, as
long as a month! However, if you have been looking for extra facilities like
hot water, TV, satellite phone, you will have to shell out a little extra
money.
With budget accommodations, the
prices are in the range of INR 400 and can go up to INR 1000.
Luxury accommodations start at INR
1000 per night and can go as big as INR 10000 per night.
TRAVEL ADVICE
- Please avoid wearing sleeveless tops, blouses, undershirts or shorts, etc in public places especially in the mosques, temples, churches, gurudwaras and monasteries. The same rule applies on the trekking routes.
- Of course you can wear short and comfortable clothing in the camp sites that are away from the human habitation but these should soon be changed to slacks, trousers and blouses in the villages where you might take a stoppage.
- Under no circumstances should you wear bikini or swimwear in the public places as these are taken as sexually provocative and may lead to possible harassment.
- Ladakh is a sensitive city where the people are still a little orthodox especially when it comes to PDAs. So, keep your affection for your partner as a private matter that ought to be confined to your own tents or rooms.
- Do not display any acts of affection in restaurants, religious buildings, streets or at public events.
- Always carry with you essential medicines since the climate here is fluctuating.
- During treks, you must take with you lip balms, sun screen and antiseptic creams.
- People who travel to Ladakh by air must take a complete rest for a day so as to adjust better to the low oxygen level and high altitudes of Ladakh.
- If you do not give your body sufficient time to adapt to the acclimatization you might suffer from Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) also known as the High Altitude Sickness.
- Carry sufficient cash as credit cards are not accepted in several places.
HOW TO EXPERIENCE LADAKH AT ITS BEST?
- Ladakh is best experienced on a road trip.
- More than the important stop across the place, it is the road that your travel is more exciting.
- Try doing a road trip in groups or join a group where you can make new friends and see Ladakh in a whole new form!
TYPE OF CLOTHS TO CARRY ON TRIP
The kind of clothes you should be
carrying depends on the kind of itinerary you plan to follow. Being a cold
desert, you will certainly experience a lot of temperature fluctuations between
nights and days. Further, summers tend to be a bit warmer with temperatures
ranging between 33 and 40 degree centigrade. However, even in the summers, the
night temperature can get to negative figures.
Ladakh is probably also one of the
easiest regions to get sunburn as are the chances of frostbites. The thumb rule
about clothing in Ladakh is to pack yourself in layers. Layers of clothing help
beat the cold and it is also the best way to adjust to the outside temperatures.
Here are the clothing essentials to Ladakh:
- Heavy / light woolens – depending on the time of the year
- Thermals in the winter months
- Full sleeve t-shirts
- A jacket for all seasons
- Woolen gloves / snow gloves
- Mufflers / woolen socks
- Woolen caps for the cold
- Sun hats ? Sunglasses
- Gum boots to cross water channels
- Umbrellas and gumboots
- Warm sleeping bag
- Shoes with good grip
DOCUMENTS TO CARRY
- Driving license
- Vehicle registration certificate
- Motorcycle insurance papers
- PUC certificates
- Medical insurance card
- Secondary ID (PAN Card, Passport, Voter ID)
- Map of Ladakh and its routes and itinerary
- Hardcopy of emergency phone numbers
SHOPPING TO DO IN LADAKH
While your trip in Ladakh is a memory
of a lifetime, it also sounds delightful to be able to bring some kind of
souvenir from the country of passes. Well, Ladakh is famous for its:
- Pashmina Shawls
- Chokste (Tibetan Tables)
- Prayer Wheels
- Thangka Paintings (silk)
- Tibetan silver jewelry
- Hand woven carpets Dragon motif textiles
LOCAL CUISINE TO TASTE
If you are traveling to Ladakh, there
are some traditional dishes that you must try out. They will include:
- Chhupri (cheese from Yak milk)
- Butter Tea
- Momos
- Thukpa (Tibetan Soup)
- Thenktuk
- Tigmo (steamed bread served with stew)
- Mokthuk
- Kulcha
- Qahwa
- Langar
WHAT TO DO IF ENCOUNTER ANY MEDICAL EMERGENCY?
- Medical emergencies are quite frequent in Ladakh.
- It is necessary that you carry you own medical kit.
- If things go out of hand, you can always get help in the army camps.
- They are perhaps the ones that have been saving a lot of tourists from a certain death.
HOW TO REACH
By Road:
- The Jammu and Kashmir and Himachal Pradesh Transport Corporation runs buses to Ladakh, and your choice will depend on the route you take.
- Both journeys will last a couple of days with several stops that would gradually open up the vast Himalayan landscape.
- Although cheap, public transport can be a bit inconvenient.
- Many prefer hiring jeep or shared taxis to get flexible with the travel timing.
- Riding your own vehicle to Ladakh is also an option and is more popularly sought.
- If you are a solo traveler, it would however be recommended that you take the service of registered travel agencies to ferry you to Ladakh. In most case, you will join a group of other travelers.
By Train:
- The closest you can get to Ladakh by train is the Jammu Tawi Station. From there, you will have to pursue road transportation, by either using public transport or renting your own vehicle.
By Flight:
- The Leh Kushok Bakula Rimpochee Airport at Leh serves for a visit to Ladakh.
- You will get connecting flights from Srinagar, Delhi and Jammu.
- The most common service providers in this route include GoAir, Air India and Jet Airways. However, remember that the availability of flights is subject to weather conditions and the weather in Ladakh, needless to say is quite unpredictable here.
- Make sure you are okay with delays!
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